Ösch Noir

The story

Ösch Noir Donaueschingen: French Haute Cuisine by Chef Manuel Ulrich

The Chef and His Craft

Manuel Ulrich directs the kitchen at Ösch Noir in Donaueschingen, building his service around French haute cuisine principles that prioritize ingredient clarity. He structures each plate so technique remains invisible, letting the quality of the produce drive the final presentation. Guests selecting either the Menu Noir or the plant-based Menu Vert will notice how restraint guides every decision behind the pass.

Signature Plates and Seasonal Focus

The kitchen balances rich proteins with carefully constructed vegetable courses, often layering contrasting textures within a single bite. Veal sweetbread accompanies tongue, Fregola Sarda, chard, and Parmesan, while imperial pigeon brings together savoy cabbage, dried plum, and a bright rice vinegar glaze. Vegetable alternatives feature handmade knöpfle tossed with Piedmont hazelnuts and Périgord truffle, or firm celery matched with pak choi, bergamot, and white miso. These compositions show how classic European cooking adapts to contemporary pacing.

Interior Design and Cellar Selections

Strands of suspended glass beads create soft partitions between round tables. Seating remains deliberately spaced, and a fully visible kitchen lets visitors observe the brigade during service hours. Michael Häni oversees the beverage program, drawing from a cellar stocked with approximately 3500 references that span established regions and emerging biodynamic growers. The wine list complements the measured rhythm of the tasting itineraries available at this location.