Le Bistrot des Ours

High quality cooking

The vast chalet of the boutique hotel Hostellerie du Pas de l’Ours opened in 1994, and since then, the same head chef has remained at the helm: Franck Reynaud. The native of southern France has spent more than three decades becoming the most decorated chef in Valais, and his love for the mountains of his adopted homeland is evident in the ingredients of the harmonious, top-tier menu. In the elegant gourmet restaurant L’Ours, the wonderfully aromatic truffle ravioli served with an emulsion of Jerusalem artichoke and hazelnuts impressed, as did the Bündner trout presented with Oona caviar, herbs, peas, and citrus. The reindeer meat stood out thanks to a sensational hibiscus rosehip borscht, while the next highlight was a Ticino zander accompanied by arugula, grapefruit, asparagus, verjus, and an Asian-inspired jus made from fish bones. The slices of beef, aged for six months, were tender and contrasted beautifully with a chimichurri-style sauce featuring mustard seeds and sharp herbs, perfectly complemented by Bäggli braised in Cornalin wine and wrapped in a cabbage leaf. The cheese course didn't quite win us over with its refined cheese-and-rye-bread millefeuille. After such a luxurious meal, we would rather enjoy a simple piece of cheese, especially since the pastry course delivered the next and final highlights: a variation on the season’s first rhubarb, and a chocolate creation with gold dust, whisky, and hazelnuts served in two stages—as a mousse and as a cocoa bean infusion. An impressive wine list featuring competently selected crus poured by the glass.

Ample wood, abundant stone, and a crackling fire in the hearth: Franck Reynaud is also in charge at the luxury hotel’s second restaurant, and the signature touch of the star chef is unmistakable here too. The meal begins excellently with a bisque of freshwater fish and carrot butter, skillfully balanced by a robust parsley and citrus espuma. The fried prawns with crisp fennel and clementines are flawless, while the delicate poultry breast stuffed with truffles is superbly executed. A small starter of limp gnocchi with bland vegetables falls short, but this is more than compensated for by the slow-braised lamb shoulder with Oriental spices. Surprisingly, the dessert steals the show: an Earl Grey-poached pear served on crisp shortcrust pastry with meringue and woodruff ice cream. An impressive wine list featuring intriguing open cru selections, paired with highly professional service.