The story
Restaurant La Fée in Hamburg showcases Mediterranean cooking led by the Klewinghaus couple. The Schlemmer Atlas awarded two spoons for their work, citing a relaxed atmosphere where guests select from rotating tasting menus or individual à la carte plates. The kitchen operates under the "Klewis" banner, a label applied to courses to highlight the owners' personal oversight. This dual offering of set journeys and custom orders ensures the service adapts to different dining preferences.
The menu features a fish ragout dressed with yellow radish and rosemary smoke as a frequent opener. A signature appetizer combines veal slices served pink with burrata, ox-heart tomatoes marinated in truffle parmesan, and a flambéed porcini cream topped with shaved summer truffle. Trout fillet stuffed with artichoke pike cream arrives with lobster-honey texture and asparagus swirled in pine nut butter. Barberie duck breast pairs with dwarf oranges and braised cabbage alongside clarified butter spaetzle. These dishes emphasize Mediterranean flavors, pairing rich elements with sharp vegetable notes.
The venue hosts private parties and intimate dinners within a comfortable setting that favors ease over rigidity. Table service remains present throughout the evening, aligning with the restaurant's fine dining classification while preserving the warmth associated with the owners' partnership. Plant-based guests navigate a dedicated vegetarian sequence spanning six or seven courses, beginning with a mushroom compot infused with rosemary smoke and ginger pesto. Dessert selections include watermelon slices baked with mint cream and white chocolate ice cream emerging from vanilla smoke.
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